Eisenberg Ice: The Chicago Label That Became a Rhinestone Legend

Long before Tiffany or Harry Winston became household names in American fashion, Chicago had Eisenberg. Founded in 1914 as a women’s clothing manufacturer, Eisenberg & Sons began adding jewelry to their garments in the 1930s — not as afterthought accessories, but as integral design elements. The jewelry proved so popular that customers began removing it from garments to keep for themselves. By the 1940s, Eisenberg had pivoted to jewelry full-time, and the legend of Eisenberg Ice was underway.

‘Eisenberg Original’ marks the earliest and most valuable pieces — sterling silver settings with hand-set rhinestones of exceptional quality produced primarily in the late 1930s and 1940s. These pieces reflect a Retro Deco sensibility: large, bold, architectural forms with stones that catch light from every angle. ‘Eisenberg Ice,’ introduced later as a separate line, used rhodium-plated settings rather than sterling but maintained the commitment to top-grade Austrian rhinestones.

What distinguished Eisenberg from competitors was stone quality. Eisenberg sourced Austrian rhinestones — Swarovski in particular — and used foil-backed settings that maximize brilliance. Under a loupe, an Eisenberg rhinestone should look almost wet with light. Pieces marked ‘Eisenberg Original’ in script are the most sought-after; later pieces marked ‘Eisenberg Ice’ in block letters are plentiful but still beloved for their wearability and sparkle.

For collectors, Eisenberg brooches in original sterling with large statement stones represent the pinnacle of the brand. Complete parures are rare and correspondingly valuable. Any rhinestone lover who hasn’t yet explored Eisenberg’s archive is missing one of American costume jewelry’s most dazzling chapters.