How to Authenticate a Miriam Haskell, Schiaparelli, or Chanel Piece Before You Buy

The three most frequently faked names in vintage costume jewelry are also three of the most desirable: Miriam Haskell, Schiaparelli, and Chanel. Reproductions range from crude imitations that fool no one to sophisticated fakes that have deceived experienced collectors. Before spending serious money on any piece bearing these names, a methodical authentication process is essential.

For Miriam Haskell, begin with the signature. Authentic pieces carry an oval cartouche reading ‘Miriam Haskell’ in a specific, consistent script; the cartouche itself is typically attached to the piece with a jump ring, not soldered. The Russian brass findings should show warm, even aging consistent with the piece’s overall condition — bright, shiny findings on an otherwise aged piece suggest replaced hardware.

Schiaparelli authentication centers on stone quality and signature placement. Authentic aurora borealis stones display complex, shifting iridescence — rainbow color visible from multiple angles, not a single-color shimmer. The signature should appear on metal, not on a reproduction tag. Reference books like Christie Romero’s ‘Warman’s Jewelry’ provide comparative photography that helps identify period-correct construction details.

Chanel costume jewelry authentication requires understanding the brand’s production history. Pieces made during Coco Chanel’s lifetime (pre-1971) are signed differently than those produced afterward. The Gripoix glass pearls and poured glass stones used in authentic Chanel pieces have a depth and organic irregularity that distinguishes them from uniform glass substitutes. When in doubt, purchase only from established dealers with written authentication guarantees.